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A new magazine for the international lifestyle

Advice & articles on everything from escaping your own country to a vacation home abroad from writers and editors with first-hand experience. For those who love and live the expat life . . .

Casa Cueva: Cave Dwelling in Andalusia, Spain
 
by Charles Leary & Vaughn Perret


Unlike the proverbial Neanderthals, cave dwellers may be some of the smartest beings on earth. Life protected from the elements by caves has persisted as a form of human existence for millennia, and goes on to this day in places such as Turkey, Tunisia, Afghanistan, Morocco, Italy, and France. In southern Remarkabily, in Andalusia cave homes are man made, and are not natural formations that humans simply moved into. Some of the very earliest names for the city of Granada refer to its cave dwellings. In nearby Benalua, a suburb of Guadix, everyone lives in a cave, just as in the gypsy quarter of Sacromonte. There are cave theaters, cave hotels, cave restaurants, cave spas, and of course, cave houses, known in Spanish as casas cueva. At the other end of the Sierra Nevada mountain chain too, near Almeria but still in Granada Province, cave dwelling has existed at least since the Arab invasion of Iberia in the 8th century. Granada Province has the largest cave dwelling population in Europe.


Here cave buildings do not, as might be expected, exist inside natural rock formations, like at Capadoccia in Turkey or the Tarn Gorge in France. Instead, they are intentional dwelling spaces carved out of hard clay and earth. Buying, refurbishing, or creating a new cave house represents the ultimate in efficient and sustainable living--though please be advised that we would not suggest building a cave house outside of regions where it is common practice and the structural integrity of the earth is well known. In Granada, the ancient cave dwelling area extends far beyond the contemporary city, into the hills and ravines of San Miguel Park, where some squatters still live, laying claim to caves without running water or electricity and living rent-free.


In southern Spain, cave houses naturally maintain a steady temperature of around 19-20 degrees centigrade year round. This is quite exceptional in a montane climate like Granada City where summertime temperatures surpass 40 degrees and where it occasionally snows in winter. Building a cave dwelling is relatively inexpensive (though not necessarily cheap), cave houses can have all the amenities of a regular house (and more), electricity, plumbing, and HVAC are easy to install, and cave houses remain dry and habitable with normal ventilation, unlike many stone caves that can store dampness. This is because earthen caves, if built and treated correctly, continue to “breathe,” allowing transpiration of moisutre. Even those with claustrophobia find modern cave houses quite comfortable. After becoming accustomed to cave living, it is soothing to return to a home with the solidity of the earth and the silence of a church.



In Granada, the most geographically diverse province in the Iberian Peninsula, there exist distinct concentrations of cave settlement, notably in the historic Albaycin and Sacromonte neighborhoods of Granada City, in Guadix, on the other side of the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains, and in the more mountainous region of Baza. The Albaycin and Sacromonte are adjacent hillside neighborhoods, both of which form part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the Alhambra Palace. They are ancient settlements, with cave dwelling existing at least back to Arab times, well before the 15th century. Guadix and Baza are similarly ancient cities. One likely historical explanation of cave building is that the Arabs brought the tradition with them from the troglodyte abodes of North Africa, starting in the early 700s. The total cave-dwelling population of the three areas runs into the tens of thousands. Some cave houses are extremely large, having up to ten or more rooms. Here there are specialists in cave construction, renovation, and expansion.


The Advantages of Caves

Caves are ecologically-friendly houses. Arguably, they are the most ecologically-sensitive form of construction, and could be combined with an alternative energy system to become an almost completely self-sustaining form of dwelling. They maintain a constant indoor temperature with natural earth insulation, which also makes them extremely quiet. They do not require large amounts of inputs in terms of bricks, concrete, mortar, metal, or wood, and do not demand costly synthetic or ecologically-questionable construction materials. In fact, earth caves must be able to breathe naturally to last.

Costs are therefore kept to a minimum, except for the expense of labor. Requirements for a completed house are limited to a natural floor finish such as terracotta tile or brick, a thin stucco-type wall and ceiling treatment (usually whitewashed; preferably a form of hydrated lime), mechanical systems, and fixtures. Earth caves can also be built to specification. Within certain limitations, one can have high or low ceilings, large or small rooms, curvilinear walls, domed or arched ceilings, alcoves, built-in furniture, and a catalog of sculptural room effects. In fact, building this kind of cave house is like sculpting your house from inside out--a most unique experience. No two cave houses are the same. Given enough land, you can also expand instantly and easily.

Natural light can be provided not only from doors and/or windows facing the outside, but also by light ducts through holes that can be created by modern well-drilling rigs. Such light traps usually have convex Plexiglas covers and reflective ducting that capture and transmit the maximum amount of natural light deep into a cave house. A whitewashed cave interior also reflects more light throughout the interior space than one might think. Caves can even accommodate a fireplace, provided that it is placed relatively near the outside wall of the cave thus keeping chimney construction manageable. Built-in bathtubs, toilet alcoves, and closets are a snap for any experienced cave builder.

Cave homes have deeds and are protected by normal property rights in Spain. What happens if you transcend property boundaries or accidentally run into someone else's cave is not clear cut in the law. This is generally only a concern in areas with a high cave house density. Older, historic caves seem to have grandfathered rights, whether or not they penetrate beneath the lands of others.

Considerations in Cave Construction

We would strongly recommend using a professional builder for any cave creation or renovation. Finding a cave builder is not always easy, though in areas with large concentrations of cave dwellings it is not hard. Anyone considering building an earthen cave dwelling themselves should spend some time in Granada or elsewhere studying cave construction. Cave hotels, apartment rentals, and flamenco night clubs (tablaos) are common in most areas.

One large problem encountered in cave construction in an urban environment is disposal of the excess earth created during excavation. Such cases require hiring a container and dump truck company to haul away up to hundreds of loads of clay, which can be expensive. This problem is compounded by the fact that naturally-compacted clay expands in volume by three to four times once excavated.

Beyond the earth disposal problem, cave construction is not for the indecisive. Unlike conventional construction techniques, you cannot go back and fix something. Holes, even doorways, can be filled in, but the basic size and shape of a room cannot be easily changed, and can never be put back or shrunk. Rooms can usually be made bigger; ceilings can be made higher; but not visa versa. Don't be afraid to have high ceilings in a cave--it costs almost nothing and makes rooms more livable and interesting. (Remember that once flooring is added, you will loose three to four inches of ceiling height.)


There should be a minimum of three meters of untouched compacted earth above the "ceiling" to prevent water intrusion and keep structural stability. Do not plant trees above your cave home! Grass and small shrubs are fine, but any plants with long roots will lead water down through the ceiling. Ideally, there should be a meter of wall thickness between cave rooms or adjacent caves. These walls can be penetrated by doorways and windows without negative consequences. All ceilings and doorways should be arched or domed, also for structural reasons. Doors should be constructed to allow ventilation and the free flow of air throughout the cave. Fresh air ducts to the more interior of cave rooms is advisable. Some choose to build reinforcing ceiling arches out of masonry for complete peace of mind. We have seen huge, two-story cave projects where the cave itself is dug out with large machinery, such as a backhoe. Today, in California wine country, they do the same to create cost-efficient wine storage for major wineries. Most cave houses, however, were in the past hand dug and these days are created using hydraulic or pneumatic hammers (like small jackhammers) backed up by shovel, pick, wheelbarrow and back-breaking work.


In terms of building codes and municipal planning, cave homes or other structures do not exist. They fail to meet code requirements written around brick & mortar or wood frame construction, and even in Granada, bureaucrats will tell you that "officially" no one should be sleeping in a cave dwelling. This is despite the fact that thousands of people do so every day. In France and Italy, the governments in the 20th century forced cave dwellers to move out, though now these areas are being repopulated. In Spain, the government continued to allow cave living, and both cave neighborhoods of Granada are protected historic areas. The failure to officially recognize the existence of cave houses and businesses does not prevent the municipality from issuing permits for cave "rehabilitation," though in Granada City, no completely new cave dwellings are supposed to be built.



We know of one "rehabilitation" permit that turned what was a single primary room with two much smaller adjacent rooms into a two-bedroom, one full-bath house with a large living room and two entry doors. What was a cave closet became a very spacious kitchen pantry with counter space and wine storage built into the cave wall. In other words, major cave expansion can be done using the permit as a cover. This is common practice in the Albaycin and Sacromonte. Many houses in the upper part of the Albaycin district have cave dwellings attached, and when gentrification occurs, new owners usually want larger and nicer caves. In other parts of Granada Province such as Baza, Galera, and Guadix, cave building is much less restricted, and even new construction is officially condoned.

Many cave houses have a small outer part of the house built with conventional construction. This protects the cave entrance and provides extra space. Services such as electricity and water can also enter here. Alternatively, there can simply be a doorway into the earth, usually with a brick frame and a door of decorative wrought iron, to allow as much light as possible into the cave.


For one example of cave dwelling, see Alhambra Vistas Vacation Rentals in Granada: www.alhambravistas.com.

 

Tripology offers unique services and potential

Jonathan Haraty, a home-based independent travel specialist has tripled his profits since joining Tripology in March 2007. Melody Hagerman, owner of Travel the Horizon is using Tripology.com to recession-proof her 25 year old business.

Tripology is an online travel referral service that connects travelers with travel specialists. Since Tripology.com launched in June 2007 the site has received over 25,000 requests from travelers seeking a connection with travel specialists.

Jonathan Haraty, owner of Jon's Dive and Travel Services and an outside consultant for the Cruise Store said: “The depth and scope of the questions Tripology asks travelers before sending a lead has really saved me time and increased my conversion rates.

Tripology sends me travelers I do not have the resources to market to. I recently booked a honeymoon to St Thomas for two soldiers deployed in Iraq. Had it not been for Tripology I never would have found these clients. “

Melody Hagerman explains what Tripology means to her business; “Unlike other lead generation services out there Tripology has consistently delivered quality leads. I especially like that I decide which leads I want to purchase. Tripology has increased my current volume and is one of tools that I am using to recession-proof my business.”

Tripology enables all travel specialists, regardless of size or location, a cost effective way to increase their profits and stabilize their business with customized travel leads. Travel specialists maintain control of the leads they choose to purchase and the ability to alter their profile and lead filters at anytime.

How Tripology works
Visitors to Tripology.com answer a series of questions to create their detailed trip request; which is matched to a selection of 6,500 agents who best meet the traveler’s requirements. The agents receive an email with all the details of trip request, including destinations, services needed, desired activities, travel dates, number of passengers, ages and lifestyles as well as occasion for travel. The first three (3) agents to purchase the lead are then emailed the traveler’s contact information.

Top 5 Romantic Hotels & Resorts
 
Living Abroad has its romance and now our editors have chosen the top 5 hotels & resorts for that honeymoon or anniversary getaway. Criterion for selection include the ability to truly escape from the world—a veritable hideaway—combined with attention to guest service, epicurean dining, spacious lodgings, and a sense of belonging to place.

The 2008 Top 5 Most Romantic list:

  • Villa Montaņa, Morelia, Mexico web
  • Trout Point Lodge of Nova Scotia, Canada web

  • Mirror Lake Inn, Lake Placid, New York, USA web

  • Four Seasons at Jimbaran Bay, Bali, Indonesia web

  • Hotel Marques de Riscal, Spain web

Property Market In Morocco Booms As Marrakech Land Prices Jump 1,500% 

As other European second-home markets, such as Spain and Portugal, continue to slow, there is more demand for a Moroccan home. The Marrakech property market has seen a growing influx of French, Spanish and British property investors, eager to cash in on this emerging market.

Two years from the fulfilment of the King of Morocco’s 2010 vision, tourism and infrastructure development continue apace across the entire Kingdom, and in particular around the popular city of Marrakech. Since 2002 Marrakech land prices have soared by 1,500% in areas like the Ourika Valley.

“The countryside ‘peasants’ are very shrewd negotiators, with their ears to the ground and their hearts set on a fair price for their homeland. Many pieces of land on which luxury Moroccan homes can be built, are owned by large families or cooperatives and to sell it would require an agreement from every single one of them. It takes a long time, and often doesn’t happen,” says Louise Hillcoat from Amazing Morocco, an investment property and holiday home expert company.

But the long time expert in the holiday home market Louise Hillcoat warns that before eager-eyed speculators rush to snap up some Moroccan land or property for sale in Morocco – to retain a while as it grows in value – they need to know the rules of the property market in Morocco.

In Morocco, foreigners cannot buy and then resell land. They can only buy land to which they are going to add value. They can do this by building a residential building or tourist development. So property in Marrakech, Ourika Valley and elsewhere in Morocco has to be lived in so the foreign buyers bring their wealth to the region, or it has to encourage visitors to the area – for example by providing holiday homes.

“To guarantee that this happens, agricultural land is sold to a foreigner together with a binding contract between the developer and the local authority.

“This Vocation Non Agricole (VNA) states that the developer must complete their project, whether luxury Moroccan homes or holiday cottages, as planned, within a set timescale. If the terms are not adhered to, the local community is entitled to reclaim the land,” Louise Hillcoat explains the difficulties of the Marrakech property market.

In addition to that, the land registry will normally not issue individual title deeds until the terms of the VNA have been completed. In 2007, this proved so crippling to developers that Marrakech was in danger of seeing an ocean of abandoned projects and many people losing their Moroccan home in which they had invested.

Marrakech however had a temporary reprieve and any house that was completed to shell and core by December 2007, could apply for their title deed and so sell the properties on. The developers breathed a sigh of relief and construction began again at speed.

Add to this, the increasingly restrictive countryside planning regulations, such as only being able to build one property of 300 sq metres per hectare and any changes to the plans requiring a “back to the start” planning application.

“It could be argued, quite strongly, that investors in Morocco would be advised to find their dream property for sale in Morocco from someone who has already been through this process. Particularly as house prices have increased by a quoted 15% per year over the same period,” Louise Hillcoat says.

Diamonds in the Rough to attract tourists to northern Canada

April 3, 2008 Visitors to Canada's north this summer will find that "diamonds in the rough" means more than fascinating communities and spectacular scenery - it also means a brilliant one carat Polar Bear Diamond (TM) valued at over eleven thousand dollars.

Each year thousands of visitors drive the Deh Cho Travel Connection, a scenic touring route linking the Alaska, Mackenzie and Liard Highways in northern Canada. Deh Cho is the Dene word for "big river" and a fitting name for a region with the colossal Peace, Liard and Mackenzie Rivers. The route traverses some of the most spectacular terrain in Canada, drawing visitors with its magnificent wildlife, rich culture and history, and outdoor recreation opportunities.

This year, adventurous travelers have another great incentive to travel the Deh Cho route - the opportunity to win a Government Certified Canadian Diamond(TM), mined at Canada's first diamond mine in the Northwest Territories and created at a local cutting and polishing factory in Yellowknife, Diamond Capital of North America(TM). All they have to do is participate in the 2008 Deh Cho "Diamonds in the Rough" Passport contest.

Tourism partners in the Northwest Territories, British Columbia and Alberta have worked together for years to promote the Deh Cho touring route. The 2008 Deh Cho Passport is another cooperative effort to encourage visitors to travel the entire route and to experience more along the way.

Travelers can pick up their 2008 Deh Cho Passport and get it stamped at any of the twenty five designated visitor information centres along the Deh Cho route. To win the diamond and other amazing prizes, travelers must collect no less than four stamps from each jurisdiction - Alberta, Northwest Territories and British Columbia.

The Diamonds in the Rough campaign will run from May 15 - September 15, 2008. Full contest details are available at
www.dehchotravel.com.

The Albaycin & Sacromonte: Special Places in Granada
 
Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site that also ecompasses the Alhambra Palace, the Albaycin counts as one of the most unique and comfortable historical neighborhoods in the world, a place where people still live their lives following traditional patterns hundreds of years old.
 
Granada and the Albaycin fit into the comfortable part of Spain. No one worries too much in Granada. Things are good. Granada, more than Seville or Cordoba, has a self-assured but humble presence about it, a bit like Italian self-confidence: we are not concerned, too much, about contemporary trends, so just live your life as best you can.
 

It's as though la dolce vita has floated over across the Mediterranean from Italy to nestle in southern Spain, or maybe it’s always been here.

 

The Albaycin quarter of Granada, once its own entire Moorish metropolis, spreads across a hill as impressive as the prominence on which the Alhambra Palace seems to float. Each directly across from the other, both hills emerge above the Vega, the plain, of greater Granada, and constitute a valley to the rear of which hides Sacromonte, the gypsy quarter, the land of flamenco and cave dwellings. This whitewashed array of houses and ruins constitutes a stunning example of aesthetic balance and humane social space.

 

Completely paved in stone, meandering streets and alleys spell out a venture in time not just to Mudejar Andalusia, but back to Moorish times and Europe’s last Islamic caliphate. Much of the Albaycin still cannot be reached by even the tiniest car, yet the neighborhood lacks the claustrophobic, shut-in feel of many Medieval European hill towns in France or central Italy. The Albaycin is not really Medieval at all, except perhaps chronologically, and no other country but Spain experienced the history of enlightened Moorish culture followed by the 700-year reconquista--the attempt by Christians to retake the Moorish lands.

 

The Moors, and the Mudejar aesthetic style that remained after their conquest, made for an urban landscape humane in proportions, deliberately determined, and yet exuding the idiosyncratic character of century upon century of denizens who cared deeply, tenderly about the space they lived in.

 

Even today, the many patterns of life, repeated time and again, continues--the market, the cafe, the bakery, butcher, cheese shop, and wine merchant. We buy our daily produce just beside the Gate of the Weights, on Plaza Larga, as the Arabs, and then the Moriscos and the Spaniards have done for 800 years.

 

Here's how the National Geographic Soceity described it in their rating of world heritage destinations (Granada was at the top):

 

"Old Granada is a wonderful tangle of spice-scented alleys where ancient and modern cultures coexist. It's one of those rare places where the day-to-day existence of the modern residents doesn't interfere with the underlying sense of history. As a gateway to the Alhambra, it succeeds in connecting the preserved relic with a living, breathing extension of that era."

World Heritage Destinations Rated

 

Questions or comments? Get in touch with us at:

info@living-abroad-consultants.com

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